The bi-annual New York Fashion Week, created in 1993 by the Council of Fashion Designers of America, always has a high-wattage runway schedule with fashion collections shown to buyers, the press, and the general public. For SS23, luxury brands, heritage brands and established designers such as Fendi, Tom Ford and Tommy Hilfiger made a return to New York while emerging talent proved why they have potential to make it big. Take a look at some of the highlights and pleasant surprises from NYFW SS23.
MARC JACOBS X FENDI
Marc Jacobs x Fendi made quite a starry splash at New York Fashion Week. Manhattan’s historic Hammerstein Ballroom was decked out with beige interiors which proved to be the perfect backdrop for the stars in the front row, i.e. Kim Kardashian, Sarah Jessica Parker, Naomi Watts, Kate Moss, Shalom Harlow and Amber Valletta. The runway was no less starry as Kim Jones, Silvia Venturini Fendi and Marc Jacobs collaborated with Tiffany and Co and Porter for the SS23 collection. The showing featured design motifs of the Baguette, in particular, on parkers, gloves and hats. And, Tiffany’s alliance witnessed the T and F from each brand’s logo on the buckle as well as its signature blue. The highlight on the runway, however, was none other than supermodel Linda Evangelista, the face of Fendi, as she returned to the runway for Fendi’s celebration of its Baguette in a blue opera cape accessorised with a stunning silver baguette. Yes, there’s no business like show business.
This season, Tommy Hilfiger paid a tribute to Andy Warhol’s NYC factory, with none other than ‘Tommy Factory’. The collection introduces its latest TH monogram designed by illustrator and graphic designer Fergus Purcell. The showing features essences of the ’60s, ’70s and ’80s eras with Americana codes of contemporary, streetwear-inspired touches. As chunky cardigans and heavy wool take over, you can also spot relaxed silhouettes in polo dresses, Bermudas and babydoll dresses. Apart from the powerful collection, a diverse cast of models walked the runway featuring supermodel icon Kate Moss’ daughter Lila Moss, Winnie Harlow, Amelia Gray, Duckie Thot, Julia Fox, Paloma Elsesser, Precious Lee and Warhol’s muse Donna Jordan. DrummerTravis Barker closed the showing with a performance.
Altuzarra SS23 was about practical pieces like the parka and sporty layered looks — striped shirts, cable sweaters and minis — layered with a blazer or parka and accessorised with retro sneakers. The fashion designer’s signature tie-dye and coin embroidery made an appearance in the line of body-skimming elegant dresses that were tie-dyed, then pleated and twisted. Per Vogue, “For spring/summer 2023, the French-American designer immersed himself in two late ’60s works that sparked something of an enlightenment: The Teachings of Don Juan by Carlos Castaneda and Desert Solitaire by Edward Abbey. Their themes of mysticism and nature played out in New York’s Starrett-Lehigh Building via a collection that blended intricate craftsmanship, Japanese dyeing techniques and cosmopolitan style.”
With rumours that he was exploring the potential sale of his fashion brand, Tom Ford tuned on the wattage at New York Fashion Week—where his SS23 showing was packed with celebrities including Madonna—and sent out a collection with sheer tees, black bra tops, deconstructed dresses, cargo shorts, fringed cowboy shirts — and lace lingerie. Yes, there were black lace negligees and flirty lace bras worn under sleek tailoring, leather bandeau bras and male models in black lace briefs!! In evening wear, Ford amped up the glam quotient with sequins. The highlight was a gold and silver sequinned bridal dress with a coordinated floral bouquet and braided crown. His menswear was in the same vein. Per Vogue, “Suits in animal jacquards or croc-embossed patent leather styled with matching transparent shirts and ties proposed a very post-pandemic approach to office wear, while tiny sequins covered an Old Hollywood ecru tuxedo jacket.
Jasmeen Dugal is a senior writer and author for FashionABC where she is responsible for writing stories that cover the fashion industry as a whole, from fashion events to innovative brands that are transforming the industry through the use of the metaverse, sustainability, and new digital solutions. She is also very active on Instagram with more than 92k followers.
Before joining FashionABC, Jasmeen worked with Condenast India as Digital Editor, and she was instrumental in launching Vogue India’s official website. Her experience in the industry spans over a decade, during which time she has gained invaluable insights into the workings of the fashion world.
Four years ago, Jasmeen embarked on a new adventure and launched her own luxury portal, where she continues to focus on telling the stories of the people behind the brands. Her unique approach to editorial has helped her stand out in the industry, and her work is highly regarded by her peers.
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