Dolce and Gabbana

Dolce Gabbana is a luxury fashion brand

Summary

Established in 1985 in Legnano by Italian designers Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana, luxury fashion brand Dolce and Gabbana blends Sicilian heritage with the sensual femininity of the Mediterranean. The maison specializes in ready-to-wear, handbags, fashion accessories and cosmetics and has a licensing deal with Luxottica for eyewear. Iconic pieces include lace corsets, sculpted midis, the slip dress, bright floral prints, cat-eyes, pearls and floral accessories.

History

Luxury fashion house Dolce and Gabbana was founded in 1985 by Italian designers Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana. Born in Palermo, Domenico honed his skills under his father who was a tailor and then shifted to Milan where he worked at a design studio. Milan- bred Stefano studied graphic design and planned to get into advertising, but unsatisfied with his career path, he turned to Fashion.

The duo initially got acquainted in a nightclub and then worked as assistants at the atelier of Giorgio Correggiari in Milan. In two years, they opened a design consulting studio which would evolve to become legendary fashion brand “Dolce and Gabbana”. The duo debuted womenswear in October 1985 alongside five new labels at Milan Fashion Week. Interestingly, since they did not have the required funds to hire runway models they requested friends to model for themand help out with their own accessories to complement the clothing. The showing was titled “Real Women”. It was not a fairytale debut. Sales were so disappointing Gabbana canceled fabric for their second collection. However Dolce’s family helped out and coincidentally the fabric company too had not received the cancellation on time so the fabric was ready!! With Lady Luck smiling on them.. Dolce and Gabbana presented the next collection in 1986 and opened their first store.

In 1987 they launched knitwear and in two years- beachwear, lingerie and leotards. In 1988 they produced ready-to-wear in Dolce’s family-owned atelier in Legnano Milan. The first men’s collection appeared in 1990. In 1994 they launched the youthful D&G label inspired by street style. However it was their fourth collection that made an impact on Italian fashion. The campaign shot in Sicily featured model Marpessa Hennink in a black bustier, skirt suit and sculpted bodice worn over a skirt, with a backdrop of nuns, ornate crosses and barber shops. The black palette was supplemented with rigid white blouses.

The first incarnation of what was to become known as “The Sicilian Dress” appeared in this collection—a modern interpretation of the black slip — described by Hal Rubenstein as “the essence of Dolce and Gabbana. It takes its cue from a slip—but it’s a slip that’s adorned Anna Magnani and it’s a silhouette that has graced Sophia Loren. The straps fit tight to the body… the neckline runs straight across but gets waylaid at least twice, once on each side to caress each breast and in the middle to meet an uplifting tuck that’s giving a gentle push up. The slip doesn’t just slide down but comes in at the waist to hold the figure firmly but not too tightly and then widens to emphasise the hips…”

Over the years iconic pieces include corset dresses- crystal-encrusted bodysuits- sculpted midis- floral prints- cat-eyes- pearls and floral accessories. In 1989 Dolce and Gabbana opened a store in Japan in collaboration with Kashiyama and began exporting to the United States where they opened a showroom the following year. In 1992 they presented a men’s line and debuted fragrances for which they were awarded “Oscar des Parfums” for Best Male Perfume from the French Parfum Academy.

During the Nineties sales were reportedly $500 million. Moving forward SS90 referenced the mythological painting of Raphael while FW91 was a rage due to the intricately embellished corsets. FW92 was inspired by Fifties’ cinema and the crystal embellished body suits were a sell-out. that year their men’s collection received “Woolmark Award for Most Innovative Men’s Collection of the Year.”

Dolce and Gabbana carved a niche on the international fashion map when Madonna wore a corset encrusted with gemstones and a jacket from Dolce and Gabbana at the New York premiere of “Truth Or Dare: In Bed With Madonna.” The duo partnered Madonna in 1993 to design costumes for her album tour. In an interview Madonna stated “Their clothes are sexy with a sense of humor—like me.”

Elle wrote about them as “From Madonna to Scarlett, from Linda to Gisele, Dolce and Gabbana have shaped the style of a generation of women. They invented the corset dress, they brought us sharply feminine suits with white shirts that automatically undid at your cleavage, they gave us statement coats and feminine floral prints…”

In 1995 their collection incited controversy with the British and Italian press when they selected the American gangster motif as inspiration. Unfazed, Dolce and Gabbana continued to work with Madonna, designing costumes for her promotional tours Madonna appeared in Dolce Gabbana 2010 campaign.

In 2002 the corsets that were a key part of Dolce and Gabbana’s design were reinterpreted by several designers which led to Dolce and Gabbana holding private viewings in order to sell their collections to pre-empt copying of their designs before they were sold. In 2003 the men’s line took its inspiration from iconic football stars. By 2005, the turnover was reported as €597 million. The following year the company began diversifying into accessories, leather goods and cosmetics — with Scarlett Johansson as the face of the advertising campaign.

In 2012 the duo strengthened the conglomerate by merging D&G with Dolce and Gabbana. Per New Yorker: “Dolce and Gabbana are becoming to the two-thousands what Prada was to the nineteen-nineties and Armani was to the nineteen-eighties.” And speaking of awards.. in 2003 GQ named Dolce and Gabbana “Men of the Year”. The following year readers of British Elle voted Dolce and Gabbana “Best International Designers at Elle Style Awards”.

Dolce and Gabbana celebrated the twentieth anniversary of their brand on 19 June 2010 at Piazza della la Scala and Palazzo Marino in Milan. Per Vogue: the duo explained- “If you want to speak to your audience you need to talk about your experiences; your point of view, your life. Not just make twenty-five cool outfits. If you’re honest as a designer, you talk about your life. You don’t talk about twenty-five outfits with a stylist going- “Is this cool like this?” No.”

Dolce and Gabbana continue to rule global fashion and their celebratory dresses for the A-list are in demand. Speaking of their recent collection Vogue wrote: “No one looking at this collection would mistake the shirred minidress in a mashup of polka dots and florals or the bustiers and bra tops in checkerboard black and white for any label other than D&G. The designers command of their signatures is key to their success.”

The duo continue to stay abreast of the trends and are using high technology to reach out to a wider consumer base. Per Vogue: “the Italian fashion duo will unveil Collezione Genesi- a nine-piece NFT – or non-fungible token – collection… Five of the Collezione Genesi pieces… have digital versions that can be used in the metaverse…” And that’s not all. The duo is diversifying from fashion into real estate. Per BoF: The Italian brand is partnering with real estate developers to build branded residential apartments in Miami and Marbella as well as a hotel in the Maldives.

Mission Statement

To design, produce and distribute high-end clothing, leather goods, footwear and accessories under the Dolce & Gabbana brand, as well as manage, through its licensees, the production and distribution of the fragrances, make-up, eyewear, timepieces and jewellery.

Vision

Dolce and Gabbana envisioned giving life to an all-Italian dream of superior craftsmanship- tailoring traditions- Mediterranean culture- research and innovation. The first collections are therefore an expression of dedication, study and research: a path that culminates in high fashion. Behind every creation lie the secrets of rigorously researched crafts- attention to detail and love for beauty. The luxury fashion brand continues to be inspired by Italian art, traditions and culture by offering apparel, accessories, jewellery and watches that embody a unique heritage.

Awards and Recognition

Dolce and Gabbana have been widely recognised for their body of work. Their first fashion award, the acclaimed International Woolmark Prize, came in 1991. In 2003 GQ named Dolce and Gabbana “Men of the Year” and the following year readers of British Elle voted Dolce and Gabbana “Best International Designers at Elle Style Awards”.

Products and Services

Luxury fashion brand Dolce and Gabbana retail men’s and women’s apparel in addition to bags- fashion accessories- cosmetics- and eye wear.

Team

Stefano Gabbana (Founder)
Domenico Dolce (Founder)
Alfonso Dolce (CEO)
Cristiana Ruella (COO)
Sanjay Hathiramani (Vice President, Marketing and CRM)

References