Who Decides War

SUMMARY

“Who Decides War” is a New York–based fashion label founded by Everard Best and Téla D’Amore, recognised for couture-level denim, stained-glass-inspired appliqué, distressing, and hand-dyeing techniques that fuse luxury craft with street culture. The brand shows in New York and Paris, sells direct-to-consumer online, and has earned industry recognition as a 2023 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund finalist and a 2024 LVMH Prize semi-finalist.

HISTORY

The fashion label emerged out of a deeply personal and culturally attuned vision conceived in New York. At its core is fashion designer Everard Best whose experience in denim and tailoring can be traced back to his family’s service-industry roots: on immigrating from Barbados, his father and uncle worked as tailors in Long Island, founding a shop named Alteration Consultants. Bravado’s own journey began with a label bearing his name ‘Ev Bravado’ which gradually evolved into “Who Decides War” –  now co-helmed by Téla D’ Amore.

In 2018, Best collaborated with Heron Preston and Virgil Abloh for Off-White Spring 2019 Off-White, learning from the best in the business. Téla D’Amore came in as a creative partner whose sensibility complemented Bravado’s: together, they channel a narrative of Black American culture, heritage, and urban experience. Their collaboration is described by the Council of Fashion Designers of America as “one of fashion’s buzziest brands” built on their shared vision.

The timeline has fluidity, reflecting its artisanal, re-invention-driven character. Some sources claim it was founded around 2016. The brand evolved from a more straightforward street-wear and denim imprint into a luxury label that retains its urban, raw edge—distressed denims, layered graphics, Americana references—with high-fashion ambitions. Per BoF: “Its deconstructive, heavily-illustrated and stitched denim has garnered critical praise, becoming its best-selling product.

The late Virgil Abloh, then creative director for Louis Vuitton menswear became a mentor to the duo in 2019; it quickly earned celebrity fans like J-Balvin, Joey Bada$$, Swae Lee, James Harden and Ice Spice.” “Who Decides War” uses design as a form of storytelling: reworking traditional American military gear, utility garments and denim archetypes through the lens of Black culture and urban heritage. The brand’s visual language—distressed finishes, patchwork, appliqués, bold graphics—translates an aesthetic of resilience and reclamation.

The fashion brand’s strong following became evident at New York Fashion Week Spring Summer 2022, with hundreds of fans gathering outside. In September 2023, the crowd grew so large D’Amore and Best had to call the police! Today, “Who Decides War” stands as a critically recognised fashion brand, having been named a finalist for awards like the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund. Who Decides War was also named a semi-finalist for the LVMH Prize, putting it in the same league as past participants Grace Wales Bonner, Jacquemus and Demna.

As the duo continue to broaden their design scope including outerwear capsules, elevated tailoring and elaborate shows, the fashion brand is positioned between street-wear authenticity and luxury. Their narrative—rooted in heritage and community—is central to how they define themselves. Who Decides War retails at The Webster, Ssense and Saks Fifth Avenue.

VISION

Best and D’Amore set out to “redefine Americana”, reframing familiar US workwear and denim through community-first storytelling and meticulous, hand-finished craft across categories from denim to tailoring. Their vision places spiritual iconography and lived Black American experiences at the centre of design. The duo run every aspect of the brand—from design to casting—so the label maintains exacting standards. “Who Decides War” also pursues cross-disciplinary creativity (from bespoke show pieces to experimental objects), signalling a future in which its visual language extends beyond garments while preserving its artisanal core.

MISSION STATEMENT

“Who Decides War” mission is to craft garments and objects with cultural memory—pieces that feel personal and purposeful—by merging rigorous handwork and responsible re-use with stories drawn from community, faith and family. The brand seeks to keep production thoughtful and quality-led, maintain direct relationships with its audience, and use collaborations selectively to amplify access without diluting craft.

KEY TEAM

• Everard Best — Co-Founder & Creative Director.

• Téla D’Amore — Co-Founder & Creative Director.

PRODUCTS AND SERVICES

The core portfolio focuses on premium denim, artisanal distressing and multi-phase dyeing, extended into outerwear, knitwear and shirting. Per BoF: “The brand’s assortment includes layered and zippered military-inspired jackets, heavily shredded, collaged and stitched up denim sometimes inset with lace, intricately embroidered button-downs, heavily-illustrated tees and sweaters featuring flags, fire and its now-signature stained-glass window shape.

Critics have compared the denim pieces Who Decides War sends down the runway to couture.” Notable collections include SS24 Alterations Consultants, SS23 Underwater, and FW23 Politics As Usual, each evolving the house codes across menswear and womenswear. The brand complements seasonal lines with collaborations and limited capsules—e.g., Levi’s x WDW (2022) and the 2024 H&M x Basquiat x WDW partnership—and occasional pop-ups to engage local communities.

AWARDS AND RECOGNITION

The fashion brand was named a finalist in the 2023 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund, underscoring the label’s impact among US emerging designers. In 2024, it was selected as a semi-finalist for the LVMH Prize, joining an international cohort recognised for innovation and craft. The label’s runway shows and growth trajectory have been profiled by leading fashion media, highlighting its role in reshaping contemporary Americana.