Contents
SUMMARY
Late Rohit Bal was not only a fashion designer; he was a storyteller. His runway shows were dramatic spectacles, often set in historic locations and accompanied by artistic choreography. Bal’s signature style was a celebration of India’s heritage, reimagined to be relevant today in its grandeur, craftsmanship and elegance. Famous for his design ethos that married traditional patterns and craftsmanship with modern global sensibilities, Time Magazine described him as “India’s Master of fabric and fantasy.”
HISTORY
Hailing from Kashmir and settled in New Delhi, India, Rohit Bal graduatED from St. Stephen’s New Delhi with a degree in history and then diversified into fashion design at the National Institute of Fashion Technology. Beginning his professional life at his brother’s export house, he launched his label in 1090 with haute couture, ready to wear, accessories, fragrance and a denim line.
Rohit Bal. Image Source: rohitbal.com
Theatrical fashion is Rohit Bal’s calling card. His most iconic showing was preceded with a dramatic presentation by a dance troupe whose leader dressed as Lord Krishna. The electrifying experience tapped into a sense of feeling the land, of imbibing tradition… and charged the show as supermodels walked the runway in his collection. In another season, his guests were awestruck by the haunting beauty of the creative presentation—it’s not every day the a luxury hotel witnesses supermodels taking a bow with the fashion designer, inside a swimming pool! The experience was inclusive of the craftsmanship, the element of fantasy, the energy of youth. And, who can forget male models on his catwalk with sindoor in their maang as a tribute to the alpha man?
Although he makes his mastery of the craft appear effortless, integral to Rohit Bal’s design aesthetic is the juxtaposition between traditional textile craft, Kashmir hand embroideries and a modern design sensibility, in collaboration with rural weavers. Per Pernia’s Pop-Up: “Taking inspiration from history and folklore art, Rohit Bal uses Lotus and Peacock motifs in a lot of his designs. The two omnipresent motifs have become his signature style, and are intricately featured…”
He is also very popular for collaborating with sewing machine brand Usha Silai to design a collection stitched by craftswomen from Kashmir; all profits from the sales of this collection were given to the underprivileged craftswomen. Each of them got mentored by Rohit Bal and the opportunity to understand craft techniques, silhouettes and fit, their life-transforming takeaway was financial empowerment. Per Hindu, he said, “The emotional strength of this collection is where its uniqueness lies. The fact that Kashmiri women artisans are living in the middle of a war zone, yet they’ve made such exquisite pieces within a stipulated period, that too in freezing weather, speaks for their skills and hard work.”
He is not just a creative powerhouse. Bal’s business acumen is evident in the diversification and collaborations, to strengthen his brand equity. The designer launched restaurant chain Veda and fine dining Cibo. He further diversified into Rohit Bal Luxury Weddings and forged alliances with brands including Omega, Aditya Birla Group, Chivas Regal, Mitsubishi, Hidesign, Reid and Taylor, Titan, Oriflame, Mitsubishi Outlander, Windproof Zippo Lighter and several others.
Rohit Bal creation. Image Source: rohitbal.com
On the global fashion map, Rohit Bal inked a creative collaboration with Christian Louboutin and Lancôme and was an ambassador for Omega. “These collaborations are not limited to me being a public face of the brand. It involves utilising my ideas to create a certain look for the product” he says. Rohit Bal has held fashion shows in London, Paris, New York, Singapore, Moscow, Jakarta, Colombo, Sao Paulo, Munich, Geneva and India… and was always brimming with creative ideas. So it doesn’t come as a surprise that his clientele includes the global A-list set, Uma Thurman, Cindy Crawford and Naomi Campbell.
Sadly, however, Rohit Bal was fighting for his life in Medanta Hospital in Delhi, India since late November 2023. The fashion designer was on the ventilator with a pre-existing cardiac condition, recovered for a short time where he showcased his final collection, and then passed away.
VISION
To design modern globally relevant collections steeped in ancient handcrafted textile tradition and sustainable ethics. Rohit Bal believes the he has stayed relevant in Indian fashion because he stays true to his tradition-rooted design philosophy rather than showcasing transient trends. And often refers to himself as a traditionalist. Per Vogue: “The designer’s ability to portray his poetic vision is of a rare kind, his theatrical productions on the runway eliciting goosebumps. His love for Kashmir has a special place in his heart, and that eventually comes out by way of his craft.”
MISSION STATEMENT
Rohit Bal’s mission was to keep India’s craft alive and relevant on the global stage. He set out to translate heritage—Kashmiri embroideries, lotus and peacock motifs, handloom traditions—into modern couture and ready-to-wear with precise construction and responsible sourcing. His runway shows told stories, but the purpose ran deeper: to honour artisans, create steady work through collaborations with rural weavers and initiatives like Usha Silai, and prove that beauty and sustainability can coexist. By combining history, folklore and contemporary design for both men and women, he built timeless collections that felt culturally rooted and fit to wear today.
RECOGNITION AND AWARDS
Rohit Bal is recognised as one of the leading Indian fashion designers who perceives design as an art form. He draws on history, fantasy and folklore to create masterpieces that are desired by discerning aficionados around the globe. Rohit Bal’s collections – be it haute couture, menswear or womenswear – are intelligent and innovative yet relevant and awe-inspiring. The couturier is popular for his theatrical showings be it a show preceded with a dramatic presentation by a dance troupe whose leader dressed as Lord Krishna. Or supermodels taking a bow with the designer, inside a swimming pool! The experience was inclusive of the craftsmanship, the element of fantasy, the energy of youth.
PRODUCTS AND SERVICES
Couture and ready to wear for men and women. Some of Rohit Bal’s iconic designs include the sherwani- bandhgala- shawls- bundi and tuxedo for men and the saris- lehengas and anarkalis for women. Integral to Bal’s aesthetic is juxtaposition between traditional textile craft, Kashmir hand embroideries and modern design sensibility, working in collaboration with rural weavers. Balance by Rohit Bal is the pret line which retails dresses- kurtas- anarkalis and shirts.
Rohit Bal’s most iconic showing was preceded with a dramatic presentation by a dance troupe whose leader dressed as Lord Krishna, which tapped into a sense of imbibing tradition and charged the show as models walked the runway in his collection. In another season supermodels took a bow with the designer- inside a luxury hotel’s swimming pool! The experience was inclusive of the craftsmanship, the element of fantasy and the energy of youth. The couturier made headlines again when male models walked down the runway with sindoor in their maang!!
REFERENCES
- Rohit Bal was chosen by the Khadi Gram Udyog, the largest handloom textile operation in Panchkula, to work with them. indiatimes.com.
- “Even in troubled times, nothing can take away beauty of Kashmir: Rohit Bal”. Greater Kashmir.
- “Rohit Bal dies at 63: Celebrated Kashmiri designer who redefined Indian fashion”. India Today.
- “Ace Indian fashion designer Rohit Bal critical: Report”. Arabian Business.
- “Rohit Bal: Tributes pour in as iconic Indian fashion designer dies at 63”. The Independent.
- “India’s top fashion designer Rohit Bal dies at age 63”. Connected to India.
- “Rohit Bal is part of the BoF 500”. The Business of Fashion.
- “Khadi does the catwalk”. The Hindu.
- “India’s Fashion ‘Bad Boy'”. Bangkok Post.
- “Pioneering Indian designer Rohit Bal dies at 63”. BBC Home.
- “India Couture Week 2016: The finale by Rohit Bal was a showcase of opulence and grandeur”. Indian Express.
- “Rohit Bal joins forces with brand BIBA”.
- “Ace fashion designer Rohit Bal passes away at 63 following heart complications”. The Indian Express.
- “Fashion designer Rohit Bal passes away; FDCI says his legacy of artistry, innovation will live on”. mint.
- “Renowned fashion designer Rohit Bal dies after prolonged illness”. India Today.
- “Fashion industry bids tearful adieu to its visionary Rohit Bal”. Indian Express.
- “Iconic Indian Designer Rohit Bal Cause of Death”. America Gist.
- “Ananya Panday in Rohit Bal’s ensemble bring glam to grand finale of Lakme Fashion Week X FDCI 2024”. ANI News.
- “A Glimpse Into The Life And Times Of Legendary Indian Fashion Designer Rohit Bal”. www.ndtv.com.
- “Rohit Bal | BoF 500 | The People Shaping the Global Fashion Industry”. The Business of Fashion
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