Marni

Experimental approach to Fashion

Summary

Italian luxury fashion brand Marni- founded in 1994 by Consuelo Castiglioni- is acclaimed worldwide for its women’s, men’s and kids’ ready-to-wear and accessories which celebrates its  experimental approach to textiles and colours and its combination of bold prints- eccentricity and intellectualism. What’s more the luxury fashion brand holds a constant dialogue with the art and community and is strongly inspired by it. In 2012- however- Marni was acquired by OTB Group owned by Italian entrepreneur Renzo Rosso.

History

Founded in Milan in 1994 by Swiss fashion designer Consuelo Castiglioni in collaboration with her business partner and husband Gianni Castiglioni Marni has become internationally renowned for its experimental collections. Per BoF: “Consuelo Castiglioni won praise for her sophisticated and forward-thinking designs that boasted a cult global following and admiration from influential industry insiders. Despite no formal education in fashion design, her sharp silhouettes with its bold prints and textures made her one of the most creative designers in Fashion.”

Initially a side business of the Castiglioni’s fur business the label became independent of the family business in 1999 and Consuelo Castiglioni developed a fashion-forward experimental design aesthetic. While fur continued to feature in Marni collections the brand was widely popular for its original prints designed in alliance with artists such as photographer Richard Prince, pop artist Sir Peter Blake and musician Kim Gordon. In 2000 the brand expanded into key markets and opened near hundred standalone stores and luxury department stores. During this time Marni forayed into e-retail with the launch of an online store which not only offered e-commerce but also presented the world of Marni through dedicated sections on its artistic collaborations and key projects.

In 2012 Consuelo Castiglioni inked a creative collaboration with H&M and the result was a sellout capsule collection. Although Marni remained a family owned business for over fifteen years… in 2012 it was acquired by Renzo Rosso’s OTB Group whose brands include Diesel- Maison Margiela- Viktor and Rolf- Paula Cademartor-, Staff International and Brave Kid. “It’s the natural completion to the road embarked upon with the acquisition of the brand founded twenty years ago by Consuelo and Gianni Castiglioni” he stated.

Here on.. Marni adopted its parent company’s sustainability initiatives. The OTB Group Sustainability Report 2022 brings together all projects and initiatives that contribute to the further responsible development of the company preserving the environmental and social ecosystems in the coming years. The Group Sustainability Strategy “Be Responsible. Be Brave” reflects OTB’s commitment to the environment, product sustainability and people. The Report records the Group’s carbon footprint for 2020-22 and its continuous monitoring to achieve the Net Zero target in internal operations by 2030.

In October 2016 Consuelo Castiglioni stepped down from Marni. That year the company appointed Francesco Risso– alumnus of FIT New York and Central St. Martins London and former designer at Prada- as Creative Director. Per Harvey Nichols’ portal he said, “I’m driven by a concept I call ‘retrovolution’ — taking everything you have learned in the past.. all the traditions.. and moving beyond by challenging it. Routes have no borders and every collection is an exercise in bringing thoughts and ideas to life through form. Marni has always been recognised for its bold patterns and upbeat silhouettes but ultimately we want to create a synthesis of colour and shape.”

In 2018 Stefano Biondo was appointed CEO. However, there was a change of guard at Marni. Stephano Biondo exited the company and its parent group OTB and was succeeded by Barbara Calo who at that time held the title of General Manager. Calò joined Marni in 2016 as Global Omni-Channel Director and in her new position reported to OTB CEO Ubaldo Minelli. She was later promoted to CEO.

Structural changes notwithstanding… Marni continues to be bold experimental and fashion forward. Per Vogue- for Fall Winter RTW 2023: “Going back to the love he feels for his metier keeps him grounded… For the Marni creative director clothes are living creatures.. they touch, breath, move; it’s a love dance, a sentimental relationship…”

Vision

Luxury fashion brand Marni’s vision can be described as a playful, creative approach to textiles and prints and colors. Per OTB: “Marni is a state of mind.. a playful spirit.. with a history of friendly humanist values combined with an experimental approach to materials and colors as well as a unique flair for mixing prints and shapes.” Determined to stand out through its distinctive use of colour, materials and volumes, the Marni style is now in a league of its own. Its success is all in the detail, with creative prints and patchworks of materials that surprise us with each new collection, giving them a discreetly eccentric feel. And its popularity continues. In a digital age of fast fashion and fleeting trends, the Marni style endures from season to season, through timeless pieces with bold designs and noble materials, to be worn in our day-to-day lives instead of flaunted on social media.

Mission Statement

The brand’s aesthetic paradigm mirrors the vision of Creative Director Francesco Risso: the quirky elegance of Marni is a range of possibilities, an exploration of ideals, a lifestyle with an avant-garde attitude that holds a constant dialogue with the world of art.

Products and Services

Luxury brand Marni’s primary focus is on men’s- women’s -kids’ ready to wear in bold prints and a line of accessories including handbags and eyewear. Of late the firm also retails homeware.

Awards and Recognition

Recognised for its craftsmanship and experimental designs, Italian house Marni never fails to impress and surprise. For thirty years, it has advocated the art of handmade design, and with its heritage now in the capable hands of Francesco Risso, its current artistic designer, Marni is more sparkling and scintillating than ever.

Key Team

  • Barbara Calò, CEO
  • Francesco Risso, Creative Director

References