New York-based fashion brand founded in 2019 by designer Tremaine Emory
Denim Tears' innovative approach to fashion and cultural storytelling has garnered significant recognition within the industry.
Denim Tears is a New York-based fashion brand founded in 2019 by designer Tremaine Emory. Founded in 2019, each collection tells a story, revealing what the brand’s founder calls the African Diaspora. Showcased through collaborations with Ugg, Stüssy, Champion, Converse, ASICS, and Dior, Denim Tears is a portfolio of Emory’s African American vision. And its approach to heritage and design has earned its place in The Met Costume Institute in New York’s permanent collection.
The label combines high-end streetwear with cultural narratives, focusing on African American fashion history and identity. Emory’s designs, often featuring the symbolic cotton wreath motif, transform everyday garments into powerful statements of heritage and resilience. The fashion brand been embraced by celebrities such as ASAP Rocky and by resellers on StockX. Denim Tears even released — and sold out — cashmere sweatsuits retailing for $2,800 with wreaths made from Swarovski crystals.
Denim Tears was established by Tremaine Emory, a designer with a background in fashion marketing and design. Prior to launching his own label, Emory honed his craft at renowned brands such as Supreme, Yeezy, and Off-White, and contributed to publications like The Face. His diverse experiences culminated in the creation of Denim Tears, a brand that serves as a canvas for exploring African American narratives through fashion.
The fashion brand’s debut collection in 2019 introduced the cotton wreath motif, a design inspired by the painful history of slavery and the cotton industry in America. The wreath, to Emory, symbolises the history of slavery and the plight of African Americans, and it’s just one of many designs that share stories about the Black diaspora. This emblem has since become synonymous with Denim Tears and the motif’s subtle integration into garments invites wearers to engage in deeper conversations about race and heritage.
Denim Tears
Denim Tears gained significant attention with its collaboration with Levi’s in 2020. The collection featured repurposed Levi’s denim adorned with the cotton wreath print, paying homage to the brand’s heritage while infusing it with a contemporary cultural perspective. This partnership highlighted Denim Tears’ ability to merge historical narratives with modern fashion sensibilities Further expanding its reach, Denim Tears collaborated with Dior in 2022 to create a capsule collection that celebrated the inventiveness of both houses. The collaboration was unveiled at the Grand Egyptian Museum in Cairo, blending Dior’s luxury craftsmanship with Denim Tears’ cultural storytelling.
In 2023, Denim Tears launched the “5th Quarter” collection, exploring the experiences of Black athletes beyond their professional careers. The collection featured garments that reflected the challenges and transitions faced by athletes, using fashion as a medium to discuss identity and legacy. The brand’s commitment to cultural narratives was evident in the “Sweet Corner” collection, which paid tribute to the bodega culture of Jamaica, Queens. Emory described the collection as a “love letter” to the community, encapsulating the vibrancy of the neighbourhood.
Emory’s jeans or hoodies that feature graphics and political commentary like “Get Rich or D.E.I. Trying” comes from being a thought-leader-turned-designer of streetwear in the same vein as his friend, the late Virgil Abloh. The way the fashion brand forefronts Black identity is evident at its New York flagship, described as “African Diaspora Goods.” A part of the store, in the original location of streetwear retailer Union at 176 Spring Street, is reserved for a library that contains books on African art.
It’s doing brisk business on the preloved market! Per BoF: “On StockX, sales of Denim Tears items grew 290 percent in 2024 — after Emory exited Supreme — compared to 2023, and in the first half of 2025, the brand’s products sold for 31 percent above retail on average, up from 21 percent during the same period last year.”
Denim Tears’ impact was recognised when its garments were featured in The Metropolitan Museum of Art’s “In America” exhibition, celebrating 100 years of American fashion. This inclusion underscored the brand’s significance in the broader cultural and fashion industry.
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Denim Tears is committed to using fashion as a medium to explore and express the complexities of African American history and identity. The brand seeks to create garments that are not only aesthetically compelling but also rich in narrative and cultural significance. Each piece is designed to provoke thought, inspire dialogue, and foster a deeper understanding of the stories that shape our world. At the core of Denim Tears’ mission is the belief that fashion should be a reflection of society’s diverse narratives. By integrating historical references and cultural symbols into contemporary designs, the brand aims to bridge the gap between past and present, highlighting the enduring relevance of history in shaping modern identities. Denim Tears strives to be a catalyst for change within the fashion industry, advocating for inclusivity, representation, and social consciousness.
Tremaine Emory envisions Denim Tears as more than a fashion label; he sees it as a platform for storytelling and cultural expression. Drawing from his own experiences and the rich tapestry of African American history, Emory aims to create garments that provoke thought and conversation. He believes that fashion should serve as a mirror to society, reflecting its complexities and encouraging introspection. Emory’s vision extends to redefining the role of fashion in addressing social issues.
By embedding narratives of resilience, struggle, and identity into his designs, he seeks to challenge the status quo and inspire a more inclusive and conscious fashion industry. His work is a testament to the power of design as a tool for social change and cultural dialogue. Through Denim Tears, Emory aims to create a legacy that honours the past while shaping the future. He envisions a brand that continues to evolve, pushing boundaries and sparking conversations that transcend fashion, touching on broader themes of identity, history, and humanity.
Denim Tears offers a diverse range of products that combine streetwear aesthetics with cultural narratives. The brand’s signature denim, often embellished with the cotton wreath motif, serve as a canvas for storytelling, transforming everyday garments into powerful symbols of heritage and identity. These pieces are crafted with attention to detail and quality. Denim Tears also collaborates with renowned brands to create limited-edition collections that amplify its cultural messages. Partnerships with Levi’s, Dior, and Converse have resulted in exclusive releases that merge Denim Tears’ distinctive designs with the established craftsmanship of these iconic labels. Denim Tears also engages in cultural initiatives and exhibitions that showcase its designs within broader artistic contexts. The brand’s inclusion in The Metropolitan Museum of Art’s “In America” exhibition highlighted its significance in the intersection of fashion and cultural history.
Denim Tears’ innovative approach to fashion and cultural storytelling has garnered significant recognition within the industry. In 2023, the brand’s website was awarded the People’s Voice Webby Award in the Fashion, Style & Beauty category, acknowledging its impactful digital presence and user experience. The brand’s collaborations have also been met with critical acclaim. The Levi’s x Denim Tears collection, featuring repurposed denim adorned with the cotton wreath print, received widespread attention for its poignant commentary on African American history and its innovative design approach. Denim Tears’ cultural impact extends beyond fashion, with its designs being featured in prominent exhibitions. The inclusion of its garments in The Metropolitan Museum of Art’s “In America” exhibition underscored the brand’s significance in the broader cultural and artistic landscape, highlighting its role in bridging the gap between fashion and cultural history.
