From Burberry to Harris Tweed, Simone Rocha and fast fashion giant H&M, London Fashion Week presented by 1664 Blanc took place from 18—22 September, with more traditional runways, digital shows, and immersive installations than previous seasons.
AK|OK Anamika Khanna
This season witnessed a huge participation. The British Fashion Council had waived participation fees to support designers to showcase their collections without heavy financial strain. “We have the fashion week, the creativity, the ambition —and yet we are losing talent to Paris, Milan and Berlin— not because of a lack of creativity but because of a lack of infrastructure to support our designers to make, create, show- and importantly- to scale in this country” explains British Fashion Council CEO Laura Weir in a statement.
The SS26 schedule captured London’s energy and creative mix of stalwarts and emerging talent. Burberry, Simone Rocha, Erdem and Roksanda remain the city’s established brands; Jonathan Anderson skipped the showing and hosted an intimate dinner at The Ritz to celebrate the relaunch of his label, E-Bay showcased the power of preloved fashion and fast fashion giant H&M is changing its image from affordable basics to high fashion! Let’s take a closer look at the shows that defined London Fashion Week SS26.
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Burberry
Sir Elton John, Twiggy, Vanessa Williams, Olivia Dean, Gene and Lennon Gallagher, Lila Moss, and Naomi Campbell were among the celebrities spotted at Burberry — the closing show of London Fashion Week’s spring summer 2026 edition.
As the most anticipated show of the season, Burberry came to life in a tent at Perks Field in Kensington Place. Daniel Lee’s SS26 collection, inspired by ‘fashion’s love affair with music’, showcased fringed leather and crochet tops that would be ideal at music festivals. Retro influences were evident in the mix of checkered trench coats, embellished eveningwear, and unisex suiting. Per WWD: ‘Musicians have always had incredible style, and together with fashion they form a really strong culture’, said Lee. ‘From festivals and stadiums to open-air concerts, every summer the UK comes to life with style and sound.’
Daniel Lee interpreted music festivals through Burberry’s creative lens, sending out short chequered A-line coats, tie-dye suits, leather outerwear, graphic tees, crochet sets, fringed coats, bombers, and metallic tops, accessorised with long scarves, aviator sunglasses and Chelsea boots. PS The short, sleeveless macrame or chainmail dresses with flat lace-up boots and oversize fringed bags were perfect for music festivals!
Simone Rocha
‘A playful provocative stance’—that is how Simone Rocha described her spring 2026 collection in the show notes. The Irish designer spotlighted the transitory period between youth and adulthood right from the opening look — a floral organza skirt worn with a sequin bralette. Standout looks include the cotton poplin dress covered in a floral vinyl, the pink quilted set with black bows, and the satin gown with a graphic poppy. We loved the tiara, sequinned gloves, and bags in the shape of ruffled silk pillows!
In October 2024 Simone Rocha released her monograph published by Rizzoli. The comprehensive book on the work of Simone Rocha is insightfully edited, designed, and crafted, with imagery, texts, editorials, and backstage documentation as well as exclusive quotes and insights from industry insiders. Simone has also collaborated with diverse brands like J Brand, Moncler, Crocs as well as being the Designer Collaborator for H&M for 2021. Most recently she was the guest designer for Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture showing in Paris in January 2024.
AK|OK Anamika Khanna
AK|OK Anamika Khanna debuted at London Fashion Week with a show at Hamley’s Toy Shop on Regent Street and focused on the designer’s reinvention of traditional Indian garments, textile heritage and artistry through a modern, playful creative lens. Meant for the global Indian girl who carries pride in her heritage with her… a collection here every piece is wearable in any part of the world.
Per Elle: ‘Angarkha silhouettes are reimagined, churidars morph into trousers (‘because why not!’, she exclaims), and embroidery techniques are stripped back and reworked for a cleaner, contemporary edge. Antique silver jewellery and mythological prints sit alongside pared-down separates, creating a wardrobe that moves seamlessly between cultural memory and present-day relevance.’
The label that was set up in 2021 as a 60:40 joint venture between Reliance Brands and Anamika Khanna has a universal appeal. It operates three stores across Mumbai, New Delhi and Hyderabad, and collections are available on its website and at multibrand retailers in India. The brand is also stocked at Saks Fifth Avenue and plans to be present in several U.K.-based retailers.
Roksanda
Roksanda has been in business for two decades with a loyal consumer base including the Princess of Wales, Michelle Obama and Cate Blanchett. The collections have always been influenced by her training as an architect, as seen in sculptural silhouettes and colour blocking. Seeking inspiration from female artists Phyllida Barlow, Lee Krasner, and Josef and Anni Albers in the past, the Serbia-born designer turned to British modernist sculptor Barbara Hepworth for spring 2026.
Presented at The Chancery Rosewood ballroom, Barbara Hepworth’s aesthetic and cut-out shapes were felt in Roksanda’s dresses. Meanwhile, to celebrate her twentieth anniversary, the designer returned to her most popular silhouettes from past seasons, including the Margot dress from spring 2012 and the cut-out Anya dress from spring 2016. SS26 standouts include modular trench coats in textured silk-wool designed with removable collars for versatility and movement. We loved the black cocoon coat with an exaggerated collar!
Fashion East
The non-profit incubator Fashion East, founded and led by Lulu Kennedy, has launched the careers of fashion’s influential figures including Kim Jones, Craig Green, Simone Rocha, Martine Rose, Wales Bonner, and JW Anderson. This season, Fashion East honors that legacy with 25 Years of Fashion East, powered by Nike, a retrospective. The ICA provided the location for the celebrations: an exhibit of Fashion East’s history and a runway show. Kennedy introduced two new additions to her roster — Mayhew, the eponymous label of London College of Fashion alumnus Louis Mayhew and Jacek Gleba, Central Saint Martins MA alumnus — as well as the return of Cameron Williams’ Nuba.
Mayhew looked at the act of mudlarking, a historic tradition which sees people combing the tidal shores of the River Thames to find trinkets. Garments featured rocks, old keys and charms, while sweatpants cinched with cable ties and paint-splattered sweaters nodded to the fashion designer’s background as a decorator. Gleba showcased body suits and jackets informed by the ‘balletic body’ in unique colour combinations. The designer’s own background in dance informed the collection. Nuba saw Williams continue focusing on drape and silhouette; standouts include distressed satin trousers, cropped jackets and semi-sheer trousers. The mood in the room was celebratory: as Fashion East honoured twenty-five years in existence.
H&M
H&M unveiled its Autumn Winter 2025 line at London Fashion Week with Romeo Beckham, Paloma Elsesser, Amelia Gray and Lila Moss walking the runway, and Lola Young performing. The fast fashion giant seems to be changing its image from affordable basics to high fashion — and succeeding. H&M Studio opened the star-wattage show with shearling outerwear and sexy thigh high boots while the second act drew inspiration from Brit-pop and 90s cultural revolution. The highlight? Lola Young walked in a leather jacket, pleated skirt and high-shaft boots. Part 3 focused on chic evenings. Marlon Lundgren Garcia left his seat to walk the runway wearing a wool coat over a pinstriped blazer from H&M Atelier, which was mixed into the show. For the finale, Lola Young performed her hit songs wearing a grey blazer, tie, striped shirt and mini skirt.
Jasmeen Dugal is Associate Editor at FashionABC, contributing her insights on fashion, technology, and sustainability. She brings with herself more than two decades of editorial experience, working for national newspapers and luxury magazines in India.
Jasmeen Dugal has worked with exchange4media as a senior writer contributing articles on the country’s advertising and marketing movements, and then with Condenast India as Net Editor where she helmed Vogue India’s official website in terms of design, layout and daily content. Besides this, she is also an entrepreneur running her own luxury portal, Explosivefashion, which highlights the latest in luxury fashion and hospitality.
