New York-based luxury fashion brand Denim Tears, founded in 2019 by Tremaine Emory, combines cultural storytelling with a modern streetstyle aesthetic.
Each collection of Denim Tears is a reflection of Emory’s commitment to exploring African-American history and identity. Showcased through collaborations including Ugg, Levis, and Dior, Denim Tears is a portfolio of his African American vision. And its approach to heritage and design has earned its place in The Met Costume Institute in New York’s permanent collection. The luxury label combines high-end streetwear with cultural narratives, focusing on African American fashion history and identity. Emory’s designs, often featuring the symbolic cotton wreath motif, transform everyday garments into powerful statements of heritage and Black resilience. The fashion brand has been embraced by celebrities such as ASAP Rocky and by resellers on StockX.
The wreath motif, to Emory, symbolises the history of slavery and the plight of African Americans, and it’s just one of many designs that share stories about the Black diaspora. This emblem has since become synonymous with Denim Tears and the motif’s subtle integration into garments invites wearers to engage in deeper conversations about race and heritage. By integrating narratives of resilience, struggle, and identity into his designs, Emory inspires a more inclusive and conscious fashion industry. His work is a testament to the power of design as a tool for social change and cultural dialogue. Let’s take a closer look at the brand heritage through its most iconic collections.
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Denim Tears x Levi’s – The Cotton Wreath Collection (2020)
Denim Tears’ collaboration with Levi’s in Spring 2020 reimagined Levi’s classic 501 jeans with a cotton wreath print, symbolizing the African-American experience and the legacy of slavery in the cotton industry. The wreath celebrates the contributions of Black people but mourns the suffering that accompanied them. The stand-outs were a Trucker Jacket, 501 Jean and Plantation Hat — featuring a print of cotton wreaths.
These denim pieces were first released in indigo and then black denim. Rounding out the collection were a line of digitally-printed graphic T-shirts depicting black-and-white images of cotton fields with the red Levi’s patch. To accompany the launch, Tremaine created a short film shot by his father in his hometown: Harlem, Georgia. It features Tremaine’s grandmothers discussing their experiences with cotton-picking in America.
Denim Tears x Converse — Chuck 70 (2021)
The Denim Tears x Converse Chuck 70 collaboration, launched in October 2020, reimagined the iconic Chuck Taylor silhouette. Designed by Tremaine Emory, founder of Denim Tears, the sneakers featured a bold reinterpretation of the Pan-African flag—red, black, and green horizontal stripes—on the upper. This design was inspired by artist David Hammons’ “African-American Flag,” a symbol of Black pride and resilience.
Emory aimed to integrate the collaboration with cultural significance, transforming a classic sneaker into a canvas for activism and identity. The collaboration was not just about aesthetics; it was a statement. Emory’s vision extends beyond fashion, seeking to engage with social and political issues. Per GQ — “In the wake of the massive protest movement spurred by the George Floyd killing, Emory put a series of conditions on their release.
If Converse parent company Nike wanted his sneakers, it would need to join the movement in a meaningful way: to put its institutional weight behind real reforms, including increasing diversity in leadership roles and aiding in the push to defund police departments across America.” This movement highlighted the intersection of fashion and activism, using the sneaker as a platform to address systemic issues.
The Denim Tears x Converse Chuck 70 became iconic for its striking design and for its cultural and political resonance. By incorporating the Pan-African flag into a globally recognized sneaker, the collaboration encouraged conversations about identity, representation, and the role of fashion brands in societal change. It exemplified how fashion could transcend its commercial roots to become a medium for expression and advocacy, leaving a lasting impact on both the sneaker community and the broader cultural landscape.
Denim Tears x Dior – “Dior Tears” Capsule Collection (2022)
The “Dior Tears” capsule collection, unveiled in December 2022, marked a significant collaboration between Dior Men’s artistic director Kim Jones and Tremaine Emory, founder of Denim Tears. Presented at the Grand Egyptian Museum in Cairo, the collection celebrated African heritage through fashion, marking an intersection of streetwear and luxury, cultures and histories. Emory’s vision was deeply influenced by the experiences of Black artists and intellectuals who sought refuge and recognition in Europe during the mid-20th century, notably in Paris, as they fled the racial injustices of America.
Drawing inspiration from the sartorial elegance of Black Ivy League students and the avant-garde style of jazz musicians from the 1950s and ’60s, “Dior Tears” reimagined classic menswear silhouettes through a contemporary lens. Denim, a fabric historically rooted in American workwear, was reinterpreted with special jacquards and discharge prints, combining American aesthetics with Dior’s craftsmanship. The collection featured tailored pieces alongside casual garments, adorned with motifs like cotton blossoms and collard greens, symbolizing Emory’s African American heritage and the broader African diaspora.
What makes “Dior Tears” iconic is its integration of cultural narratives into high fashion. By merging the rich histories of Black intellectual and artistic movements with the luxury aesthetic of Dior, the collection honoured past legacies and redefined contemporary menswear. The presentation in Cairo, a city with its own historical significance, further emphasised the collection’s global and timeless appeal. “Dior Tears” stands as a testament to the power of fashion as a medium for storytelling and cultural expression.
Denim Tears x Levi’s – Black Biker Culture Collection (2023)
The 2023 collaboration between Levi’s and Denim Tears paid homage to Black biker culture, featuring leather Type 3 jackets, 501 jeans and a leather vest with a King Tut portrait. The pieces were inspired by photographer Martin Dixon’s book “Brooklyn Kings: New York City’s Black Bikers” and honoured the legacy of Black motorcycle clubs, such as the East Bay Dragons founded in 1959 near Levi’s headquarters in Oakland, California. The designs incorporated elements like the cotton wreath motif and Afro-Futuristic touches including a King Tut-inspired leather vest — combining cultural heritage with biker aesthetics.
“In Black biker culture, there is an outsider sense, a danger, a pride, a respect, a commitment to freedom, and a defiance against conforming to a polite doctrine,” said Tremaine Emory in a statement back then. “A biker’s look can only come from treating what is worn as lifetime sacred objects that develop mystery and patina. Secret codes, symbols, and colours beautifully damaged by heat, scratches, rips and spilt fuel. It gives the feel of a living skin or an armour.”
Emory’s vision was to reinterpret biker gear through an Afrocentric lens. Pieces like the Leather Cotton Wreath Type III jacket, Western Stitch 501 jeans and denim shirt, were crafted from premium materials and featured symbols representing Native American, cowboy and military influences. These garments were treated with reverence, embodying the biker’s commitment to freedom and defiance against conformity. The collection’s impact was amplified by its authentic representation — the campaign featured the Black biker community photographed in their natural, authentic environment.
Denim Tears x UGG – Black Seminole Heritage Capsule (2022)
Emory collaborated with UGG to create a two-piece capsule collection that included mid-shin Classic boots and Tasman slippers. Both were adorned with intricate stitching and beadwork, honouring Emory’s great-grandmother and her Black Seminole heritage. The designs incorporated Black Seminole craft techniques, including beadwork and whipstitch detailing, in a fusion of African American and Indigenous cultures.
Emory’s creative process was personal, inspired by his family’s history and cultural heritage. His research led him to New Orleans, where he connected with the Black Masking Culture community and visited the Backstreet Cultural Museum. This journey culminated in a 60-minute documentary featuring figures like Big Chief Demond Melancon and Chief Christian Scott aTunde Adjuah, enriching the project’s narrative.
The collection’s impact extends beyond fashion. UGG partnered with Emory to donate $50,000 to the Backstreet Cultural Museum and Guardians Institute, supporting the preservation of Black and Indigenous cultural traditions. This collaboration produced a unique footwear line and also sparked conversations about cultural identity and heritage, solidifying its place as a significant moment in fashion history.
CONCLUSION
These collections exemplify Denim Tears’ unique approach to fashion—merging storytelling, cultural heritage, and contemporary streetstyle. Each piece serves as a stylish garment and a medium for dialogue and reflection on African-American history. “I just want to tell stories that are seldom told,” Emory explained to GQ. “Because of so many things—my talent, the way I dress, people I’ve worked with, but mainly luck—I have a certain reach with youth culture. And I choose to use that, sometimes, to talk about stories that kids won’t come across in school or through algorithms.”
Jasmeen Dugal is Associate Editor at FashionABC, contributing her insights on fashion, technology, and sustainability. She brings with herself more than two decades of editorial experience, working for national newspapers and luxury magazines in India.
Jasmeen Dugal has worked with exchange4media as a senior writer contributing articles on the country’s advertising and marketing movements, and then with Condenast India as Net Editor where she helmed Vogue India’s official website in terms of design, layout and daily content. Besides this, she is also an entrepreneur running her own luxury portal, Explosivefashion, which highlights the latest in luxury fashion and hospitality.
